‘Every Culinary Artist Ought to Train At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on Roll of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.